“If you stand at the centre of Monastiraki Square and take a 360 degrees look around you, you get a pretty full representation of the Athenian past and present facing you from within only a few square meters.”
Situated at the heart of the city centre, Monastiraki is a unique merge of styles, eras and cultures, vibrant and ever-changing – yet, steadily dedicated to commerce and social encounter. If you stand at the centre of Monastiraki Square and take a 360 degrees look around you, you get a pretty full representation of the Athenian past and present facing you from within only a few square meters. Recently restored, the Square is paved with mosaic “flows” of marble, stone and wrought iron symbolizing Mediterranean diversity.
The Metro station (1895) was built for the first over ground line that connected the city to Piraeus harbor. There is a new line added underground, directly connecting Monastiraki to the airport.
“The first metro station in Athens was built in 1895.”
The works for the new Metro station (2004) were particularly hard in this part of town because it meets with the riverbed of Heridanos, a sacred river to ancient Athenians. In modern Athens, Heridanos had been left uncovered only inside the archeological site of Keramikos, the nearby ancient cemetery. Its traces inside the city were lost and now re-discovered, small parts opened inside the new station and right on the Square itself.
The Tzistaraki Mosque (1759) is named after the Ottoman Voevod of Athens and was once nicknamed “Tzami Kato Syntrivaniou” (lower-fountain Mosque, no longer existing), fed by Heridanos river. It has been used as a museum for handicrafts after its restoration (1915) and since 1975 hosts a colorful collection of early 20th century pottery from Greece, Cyprus, Ottoman and modern Turkey. In the interior there is information and photos about the artists and the historical significance of the Mosque itself, worth visiting in its own right. Below the Mosque and on the adjacent street remain the old shops of leather craftsmen, some of them now selling tourist souvenirs. Tip: haggling is a standard practice here so if you must, try to be very-very polite…
“Below the Mosque and on the adjacent street remain the old shops of leather craftsmen, some of them now selling tourist souvenirs.”
Next to the Mosque lies the side wall of the Library, constructed by Hadrian (132 A.D.), the Roman Emperor that was particularly attracted by Athens. Under Hadrian’s rule, the ancient city was enriched with significant infrastructure, some still imposing in downtown Athens. Hadrian’s Library was connected with the Roman Agora next to it, built by Julius Caesar in 10 A.D., now an archeological site. It is hard to imagine this presently casual side as it used to be in the latter Ottoman years: a busy semi-covered bazaar for grocery, grains, meat and fish, over the relics of the Library, with a Byzantine church built right inside them. Hence the old name “Kato Pazaria” (lower Bazaars), cleared out after Athens became the capital of modern Greece (1835) in a plan to dedicate the district to crafts trade alone.
“Under Hadrian’s rule, the ancient city was enriched with significant infrastructure, some still imposing in downtown Athens.”
Old habits die hard…maybe the old grocery stall standing for years in the square is not accidental!
The little Byzantine chapel (10th c. A. D.) dedicated to Virgin Mary “Pantanassa” (Universal Queen) is all that remains from the nuns’ monastery that existed until Greek independence, where the actual open square now lies; hence the colloquial name Monastiraki (meaning “little monastery”). During the Frankish rule (13th – 14th c. A.D.) it operated as a Roman Catholic chapel and was personal property to a Venetian nobleman.
Hot salep drink announced loudly so you can’t miss it is an old Athens favorite during cold winter days (and early morning hours, where the seller’s voice is guaranteed to wake you up). This seller advertises his Istanbul origins, making the product more attractive to the locals. Actually, he is Syrian.
The Square’s entrance to Mitropoleos St. hosts the most famous cluster of kebab tavernas in Athens. The first to open a kebab shop here was “Savvas”, an Armenian refugee, in 1925, whose family still operates the business. Indeed, Athenians became accustomed to kebabs after the influx of refugees from Anatolia in the 1920’s. Particularly the Armenians of Athens have been labeled as the best makers of “lahmatzoun” (minced meat with tomato, parsley and spices baked on Arabic bread) and all things “pastourma” (spicy cured beef), such as the delicious “pita Kesarias” (Kayseri pie, named after the Turkish city) The pie is wrapped in filo pastry, filled with thin beef slices, fresh tomato and yellow cheese. Savvas still serves these delicacies today.
“The first to open a kebab shop here was “Savvas”, an Armenian refugee, in 1925.”
The greek version of kebab is called “souvlaki” and is by far the most popular and cheapest street food. Do try the “kebap”, meaning the saucage-shaped spicy beef patty, such as the one seen here. The rolled up version is more common but in Monastiraki you can order the open version, i.e. “kebap” over greek pitta bread with tomatoes, parsley and onions. Avoid the onions and the occasional yogurt & garlic side dish (“tzatziki”) if you are on a date, so they will tell you, repeatedly if there’s any room for misunderstanding. Tip: shish-kebap (“kalamaki”) and döner-kebap (“gyros”) are usually made of pork or chicken, combined with the same choice of fillings. Another tip: this terminology and filling ingredients stand for Athens alone… Do not order a souvlaki the Athenian way in Thessaloniki (they will be confused).
The blandest spot is occupied by the concrete buildings in the style most prevailing around Athens, influenced by the 1960’s planning legislation. Nowadays the offices, shops and the bank are closed down and only one chain shop remains.
The 1930’s modernist building has been recently (albeit not gracefully) restored to house an apartments hotel and a terrace advertised as “the best view in Athens”. Maybe an exaggerated statement (there are better views of the Acropolis) but a pretty view anyhow (see cover photo).
Under restoration, a typical Athenian home in the neo-classical style. Dotting many districts of Athens and primarily the centre, neo-classical buildings were status symbols of the bourgeoisie accumulated in the new capital after the country’s independence (1830).
Last but not least: the Athens Flea Market, its entrance on Ifestou St. marked also by the permanent stand of this lady selling roast chestnuts (or sweet corn in the summer months). Athenians call this bazaar “Yousouroum”, after the Jewish antiques-shop owner and well-known figure of the area. Embedded in urban slang, the name of the bazaar even inspired a cult Athenian figure of the 1980’s underground scene (Nikolas Asimos) on a cynical song about human values being sold off for profit.
Ifestou St. is a popular site for buying second hand clothing (including always fashionable military uniforms and the “American Market”, meaning vintage clothing and accessories). Sports shoes and jeans, banners of countries and sports teams, greek folk art and jewelry, Indian clothing and artifacts, beads and material for jewelry- making, biking and camping gear and virtually any sort of T-Shirt (featuring from Che Guevara to Iron Maiden and beyond) are also manifested outside little shops founded around the mid 19th century. Prices are generally cheap, so the site never lost its grip particularly on youth crowds.
Small side-alleys hide a remarkable vinyl L.P. shops cluster, now mostly second hand of good quality, collector’s items and rare editions often found at a bargain price. The owners are real connoisseurs of jazz, soul, rock and pop music especially and are helpful and trustworthy. The most successful of them (Zacharias) has over time expanded inside an entire passage.
“Small side-alleys hide a remarkable vinyl L.P. shops cluster.”
“D.J. V and the Yousouroum Band”, an indicative name of a local L.P. shop…
A bit further down, Ifestou St. opens up to Avyssinias Square, initially planned to host the public auctioning site of the new capital. Nowadays you can find original antique items and woodcraftsmen shops that repair antique furniture and manufacture new pieces copied from old Athenian homes. A popular landmark here is the ouzo and meze café, especially on weekends at noon when traditional food gets accompanied by the lively music of an exceptional Gypsy band. Preferably during summer nights, people frequent the indie-pop music bar right opposite, sitting al fresco amongst closed furniture shops with the occasional old oak wardrobe wrapped in chains on the outside.
“A popular landmark here is the ouzo and meze café, especially on weekends at noon when traditional food gets accompanied by the lively music of an exceptional Gypsy band.”
At the end of Ifestou St. you can either turn right to the second- hand book shop area, or left to the little opening by St. Philip’s church (9th c. A.D.), where the afternoon bells seem to ring it’s time for original artisanal ice-cream, hand – made by an Italian expat.
You may go back direction Monastiraki Sq. by the street parallel to the old Metro lines, have a drink in one of the many cafes and enjoy the view to the ancient Agora, an important landmark of classical Athenian democracy. Amongst the trees, you can catch a glimpse of Thissio, the temple founded by Pericles’ Athens (416 B.C.) to honor Ifestos (Hephaestus), Patron God of all craftsmen.
Even though Monastiraki is of course influenced by the difficult economic circumstances that plunder the capital, it remains a small oasis of trade activity in the city. Its inherent commoners’ and working class character, holds on strong in this square-passage and as always insists and lingers on.
Sophia Nicolaou
Comments
Loading ...
